How to Build an Wood Quilt Rack
Free Woodworking Plans from Lee's Wood Projects
Posted by Lee Swindel
A quilt rack is an ideal way to display your own quilt creations, or your beautiful heirlooms that have been passed on by your grandmother. It provides the perfect way to showcase quilts and bedspreads without adding stress to the fabric. This stylish Padauk quilt rack will enhance any room that it is displayed in, and will add to that special country charm you strive to achieve.
Technical Information for Building a Wooden Quilt Rack
A. Materials List:
- Purchase 1 1/2" thick lumber for the risers (A) & (B).
- Purchase 1 1/4" thick lumber for the bases (C).
- Scale Sides A to the drawing dimension size. This can be accomplished by measuring the print out of the project and dividing that size into the dimension size shown on the drawing, or listed in the Bill of Materials. This will give a “Multi-Factor” that can be used to figure the enlargement size for the pattern.
- Take the drawing printout and the multi-factor to a printing company. Most printing companies that do duplicating can make the enlargement required for the pattern.
- The same multi-factor can be used to determine the enlargements for the other shapes C & E.
- Trace the pattern enlargements onto poster board or Mylar and cut out the patterns with a pair of scissors.
- Use these patterns to trace the shapes onto the wood stock.
C. Cutting and Assembly Procedures:
- Use table & radial arm saws to cut lumber to approximate sizes.
- Use a jointer to joint edges of lumber.
- Trace patterns on lumber for parts (A) & (B).
- Use a band saw to cut out parts (A) & (B).
- Use a spindle sander to sand parts (A) & (B) to proper shapes.
- Align parts (A) & (B) and using a try square and a pencil mark wood for dowel pins. Three marks should be placed approximately 6" from the bottom, near the middle, and at the top.
- Use a dowel jig, hand drill, and 3/8" drill bit to drill 1 1/8" deep holes into edges of parts (A) & (B) at places marked.
- Place glue on 1/2 of dowel pin and using a wooden mallet pound dowel pins into holes of parts (A). Be sure dowel pins are bottomed out.
- Place glue on exposed dowel pins and edges of parts (A) & (B). Use bar clamps to glue parts (A) & (B) together.
- Remove bar clamps and remove any dried glue with a wood chisel.
- Use a planer to plane riser assemblies (A/B) to1 1/4" thickness.
- Glue and clamp 1 1/4" lumber together to get necessary thickness for the bases (C).
- Trace pattern onto bases (C) and cut out using a band saw.
- Use a spindle sander to sand bases (C) to desired shape.
- Use a hand router and a 1/4" radius bit to route the outer and inner edges of each riser (A/B).
- Measure and mark each riser (A/B) for the center of each dowel rod. Use a drill press and a 1" Foerstner Bit to drill each hole 5/8" deep.
- Measure and mark for a tenon at the bottom of each riser (A/B). The tenon should be 3/4" x 2" x 3/4" deep. Use a radial arm saw with dado blades attached, to cut the tenons. Chamfer the corners of the tenons slightly.
- Measure and mark for a mortise at the top of each base (D). Use mortiser machine to cut each mortise 3/4" x 2" x 7/8" deep. When using hard woods pre-drill holes inside the marked areas to aide in cutting the mortises.
- Place glue on the tenon of each riser (A/B) and in the mortise of each base (C) and secure risers into the bases.
- Use bar clamps and glue to secure the four dowel rods (D) into risers (A/B).
- Trace stretcher pattern (E) onto lumber and cut-out shape using a band saw.
- Use a spindle sander to sand edges of stretcher (E) to desired shape.
- Use a radial arm saw to cut length of stretcher (E) to custom fit.
- Temporarily clamp stretcher (E) into position between bases (C) and using a hand drill and a #10 x 2 1/2" screw-mate counter bore, drill two pilot holes into each base. Drill countersinks approximately 1/4" deep. Remove clamps, place glue on each end of stretcher (E), and secure into position using four #10 x 2 1/2" flathead wood screws.
- Place a spot of glue on wood buttons (G) and tap into screw holes with a wooden mallet.
- Rough & intermediate sand all parts before glue assembly.
- Use professional-strength wood glue.
- Immediately after clamping clean-up excess glue with a wet paper towel. Do not allow glue to dry or penetrate wood surfaces.
- Allow glue to dry for approximately 24 hours.
D. Sanding Procedure:
- Rough sand all parts with an orbital sander and 80 grit sandpaper.
- Intermediate sand all parts with an orbital sander and 120 grit sandpaper.
- Finish sand all parts with an orbital sander and 220 grit sandpaper.
- Rough, intermediate, and finish sanding should be completed before assembling parts.
- Hand sand with 220 grit sandpaper to slightly round all sharp edges.
E. Finish Procedure:
- Use plastic wood dough, if needed, to fill any holes or cracks. Allow to dry approximately 1 hour before sanding.
- Hand sand wood dough with 220 grit sandpaper.
- If stain is desired, apply with a brush and allow to penetrate for approximately 10 minutes, and then remove with a clean rag.
- Allow stain to dry for 6 hours and then repeat with a second coat.
- Apply a clear finish such as Lacquer, Varathane, Polyurethane, etc. using a pure-bristle brush. Allow to dry for 12 hours.
- Lightly hand sand with 220 grit sandpaper.
- Apply second coat of clear finish.
- Allow to dry for 24 hours before using your Padauk quilt rack.
- Use a tack rag after each sanding procedure to remove the dust.
- Match wood dough color to the stain color.
- Do not allow stain to dry before removing with rag.
- If paint is desired instead of a stain and clear finish, match the color of the wood dough to the wood color. Clear pine or paint grade alder is recommended for painting.
- Most hardwoods are recommended for staining and/or clear finishes.
*Congratulations, your Padauk quilt rack is finished and ready to use!
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