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How to Make a Wooden Night Stand
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Add a special touch to your bedside areas with a pair of these elegant night stands. They are perfect for reading lamps, and the two drawers provides plenty of storage space. It also includes a tray for additional use and flexibility. The night stands are made of solid Mahogany and Mahogany plywood for strength and durability. Their unique design will add a grace and beauty to any bedroom decor.

Wooden Night Stand
Click On Image to See Larger Scalable Drawing

Technical Information for Making a Wooden Night Stand

A. Materials List:

3/4" X 17 3/4" X 25 1/2"

Honduran Mahogany
Vertical Frames
3/4" x 3" x 25"
Top Horizontal Frame
3/4" x 2" x 17"
Middle Horizontal Frame
3/4" x 1" x 17"
Middle Horizontal Frame
3/4" x 3" x 17"
Bottom Horizontal Frame
3/4" x 3 3/4" x 17"
3/4" x 15 3/4" x 25"
Mahogany Plywood
1/4" x 22 1/4" x 22 1/2"
Top/Front Molding
3/4" x 1 1/8" x 25 1/4"
Top/Side Moldings
3/4" x 1 1/8" x 17 1/2"
Middle/Front Molding
3/4" x 1 1/2" X 18 1/2"
3/4" x 4" x 24 1/2"
3/4" x 4" x 17 1/2"
3/4" x 4" x 23"
Bottom/Front Molding
3/4" x 1 1/4" x 24 1/2"
Bottom/Side Moldings
3/4" x 1 1/4" x 17 1/2"
Bottom/Front Moldings
3/4" x 11/16" x 4 3/16" 
Bottom/Side Moldings
3/4" x 11/16" x 3 11/16"
Bottom/Side Moldings
3/4" x 11/16" x 3 3/8"
3/4" x 15 3/4" x 15 3/4"
Mahogany Plywood
Tray Front
1" x 2 3/4" x 17 1/2"
Drawer Fronts
1" x 7 1/2" x 17 1/2"
Drawer Backs
1/2" x 5 7/8" x 15"
Drawer Sides
1/2" x 6 1/4" x 15 3/8"
Drawer Bottoms
1/8" 15 1/2" x 15 3/8""
Dust Covers
1/4" x 22 1/4" x 15 1/8"
Dust Cover Frames
3/4" x 1 1/4" x 22 1/4"
Drawer Guides
1 3/8" x 16"
Tray Knob
5/8" Diameter
Drawer Pulls
3" x 5"
Dowel Pins
3/8" Diameter x 2"
Front Nailer
3/4" x 3/4" x 20"
Back Nailer
3/4" x 3/4" x 20"
Side Nailers
3/4" x 3/4" x 15 1/2"

B. Patterns:

  1. Scale bottom front (L), and bottom sides (M) to the drawing dimension sizes. This can be accomplished by measuring the drawing print out and dividing the sizes into the dimension sizes. This will give a multi-factor that can be used to figure the enlargement sizes for the patterns. This can easily be done at home if you have a copier capable of making enlargements. If not, most companies that do duplicating can make the enlargements required for the patterns.
  2. Trace the pattern enlargements onto poster board or Mylar and use a pair of scissors to cut out the patterns.

C. Cutting Procedures:

  1. Use a planer to plane the Mahogany lumber 3/4" thick.
  2. Use a radial arm saw and a table saw to cut the Mahogany lumber to the proper sizes shown on the materials list.
  3. Use a jointer to joint the edges of the lumber to remove the saw marks.
  4. Use two 3/4" x 8 7/8" x 17 3/4" pieces of lumber for the top (A). Place the edges together and use a combination square and pencil, mark for dowel pin placements 4" from each end. Use a dowel jig to align the 3/8" hole with the marks on the lumber. Use a hand drill and a 3/8" bit to drill the holes 1 1/8" deep. Note: If a horizontal boring machine is available it is preferable to use it in place of the dowel jig and drill. Place wood glue on one half of each dowel and pound them into the holes using a wooden mallet. Place glue on edges and exposed dowel pins and clamp boards together using two bar clamps. Clean up excess glue and allow to dry 24 hours. Remove clamps and use a planer to plane a trim cut on both sides.
  5. Cut the two sides (G) from 3/4" Mahogany plywood. Use a table saw to cut a 1/4" x 1/4" rabbet joint on the inside edge of each side for the placement of the back (H). Attach an adjustable dado head on the table saw and set it to cut 3/4" wide and 3/8" deep. On the inside surfaces of each side (G) cut three dadoes to accom- modate the dust cover frames (A/A). The dado cuts should be 3 5/8", 11 3/4", and 21 1/4" from the top of each side.
  6. Cut the back to size from 1/4" thick hardboard. Note: It would be best to cut the back after the night stand is assembled to get a perfect fit.
  7. Trace the patterns for the bottom/front (L) and the bottom/sides (M). Use a band saw to cut out the shapes, and a spindle sander to finish them to the desired smoothness. Use a power miter saw to cut 45 degree angles on the appropriate ends.
  8. Use a router and a 1" Roman Ogee Bit to route the edges of the top (A), middle molding (K), bottom/front molding (O), bottom/side moldings (P), bottom/front moldings (Q), bottom/side moldings (R) and (S), tray front (U), and drawer fronts (V). Use a table saw to rip the bottom/front molding (O) and the bottom/side moldings (P) 1 1/8" wide. Also, rip the bottom/front moldings (Q) and the bottom/side moldings (R) and (S) 11/16" wide.
  9. Use a power miter saw to cut the appropriate ends of the bottom/front moldings (O) and (Q), and the bottom/side moldings (P), and (R) to 45 degrees.
  10. Use a router and a cove bit and a cove box bit to shape the top/front molding (I) and the top/side moldings (J). Use a table saw to rip the moldings 1" wide, and a power miter saw to cut the appropriate ends of the moldings to 45 degrees.
  11. On the two vertical frames (B) measure 15/16" and 1 15/16" over from the outside edges to locate the centers for the flutes. Start the flutes 1 3/4" from the top ends. Route the flutes 3/8" wide and19 1/4" long using a core box bit.
  12. Use a mortise machine with a 1/2" bit to cut two 1/2" deep mortise joints on the inside of each drawer front (V) to accommodate the drawer sides (X). The mortise joints should start 1/4" from the bottom of the drawer front and 3/4" in from each end.
  13. Drill two holes into each drawer front (V) to accommodate the drawer pulls (D/D).
  14. Use a mortise machine with a 3/4" bit to cut a 1/2" deep mortise joint on the inside of the tray front (U) to accommodate the tray (T). The mortise joint should start 5/8" from the bottom of the tray front and 7/8" in from each side.
  15. Use a table saw to cut 1/8" x 1/4" grooves on the insides of the drawer fronts (V), drawer backs (W), and the drawer sides (X) to accommodate the drawer bottoms (Y). The grooves should be cut 3/8" from the bottom edges of the drawer backs and drawer sides. The grooves for the drawer front should be blind grooves. They should be cut 5/8" from the bottom edges and 1" from the ends.
  16. Use a table saw to cut the drawer bottoms from 1/8" plywood.
  17. Use a router and a corner rounding bit to round the top edges of the drawer sides (X). It will require a cut from both sides of the drawer sides to accomplish the round shape.
  18. Use a table saw and a 1/4" wide dado blade to cut a 1/4" x 1/4" groove in one edge of the dust cover frames (A/A) to accommodate the dust covers (Z).

D. Sanding Procedures:

  1. Rough sand all parts using an orbital hand sander with 80 grit sand paper.
  2. Intermediate sand using an orbital hand sander with 120 grit sand paper.
  3. Finish sand using an orbital hand sander with 220 grit sand paper.
  4. Hand sand all edges to desired finish.

E. Assembly Procedures:

  1. Build the cabinet frame according to the dimensions shown on the drawing and the lumber sizes indicated in the materials list. Each frame piece should be attached using two 3/8" x 2" dowel pins. Use a 3/8" drill bit with a dowel jig or a horizontal boring machine to drill the holes necessary for the dowels. The holes should be drilled 1 1/16" deep. Place a few drops of wood glue in the dowel holes and tap the dowel pins in using a mallet. Place glue on the exposed dowel pins and assemble the frame. Use bar clamps and hand screw clamps to secure the cabinet frame. Use a framing square to assure that the frame is perfectly square. Allow the glue to dry over night. Note: The top horizontal frame (C) should be positioned flush with the top ends of the vertical frames (B). The spacing between the top horizontal frame (C) and the middle horizontal frame (D) is 1 5/8". The spacing between the middle horizontal frame (D) and the middle horizontal frame (E) is 7". The spacing between the middle horizontal frame (E) and the bottom horizontal frame (F) is 7".
  2. Place wood glue on the front edge of each side (G) and nail the face frame assembly onto them with a nail gun and 1 1/2" nails. Place glue on three front dust cover frames (A/A) and slide them into the dado slots of the sides (G). The grooves in the dust cover frames should point to the back of the night stand assembly. Slide the dust covers (Z) into the grooves. Place glue on the remaining dust cover frames and slide them into the dado slots of the sides and onto the rear edges of the dust covers. Use 1/2" brads to secure the dust covers and frames in place. Temporarily position the back (H) in place and use bar clamps to secure the assembly while the glue dries.
  3. Use a drill press and a #10 x 1 1/4" countersink bit to drill pilot holes 2" from each end of the front nailer (F/F). Rotate the front nailer 90 degrees and drill two additional pilot holes 3" from each end. Repeat the process for the back nailer G/G, and the side nailers (H/H).
  4. Place glue on the ends of the side nailers (H/H) and nail the front nailer (F/F) and the back nailer (G/G) onto them
  5. Clamp the nailer assembly onto the sides (G) and the top horizontal Frame (C). The nailer assembly should be clamped flush with the top of the cabinet assembly. Secure the nailer assembly inside the cabinet assembly with #10 x 1 1/4" flathead wood screws. Place the top (A) in position on top of the cabinet assembly and secure it in place with the wood screws.
  6. Place glue on the inside of the bottom/front (L). The glue should span the length of the bottom/front and cover only the top 2". Nail the bottom/front onto the bottom/horizontal frame ((F) and the vertical frames (B) with 1 1/4" nails. The bottom/front should extend 2 1/4" below the bottom edge of the bottom/horizontal frame. Repeat the gluing and nailing procedure for the bottom/sides (M). Be sure the miter joints align properly.
  7. Place glue on the ends of the bottom/back (N) and slip it between the bottom/sides (M) and secure with 1 1/4" nails.
  8. Use a nail gun and 1" brads to nail the top/front & side moldings (I) & (J), and the bottom/front & side moldings (O) & (P), (Q), (R), & (S) in their proper positions. Use a scroll saw to trim the ends of the bottom/front and side moldings to the shapes of the bottom/front (L) and bottom/sides (M).
  9. Place glue on the ends of each drawer back (W) and nail the drawer sides (X) onto the back. Slide the drawer bottoms (Y) into the grooves of the drawer sides. Place glue in the mortise joints on the inside face of each drawer front (V). Slip the drawer sides into the mortise joints and clamp them together with bar clamps.
  10. Drill a hole in the center of the tray front (U) and insert a machine screw from the back side for the tray knob (C/C). The hole should be counter sunk into the mortise joint to allow the tray (T) to bottom-out inside the mortise joint.
  11. Place glue in the mortise joint on the inside face of the tray front (U). Slip the tray (T) into the mortise joint and clamp together with bar clamps.
  12. Screw the track portion of the drawer guides (B/B) onto the front and rear dust cover frames (A/A). The other portion of the drawer guide should be screwed on the bottom of the tray (T) and the bottom of each drawer. NOTE: The drawer guides must be centered on the dust cover frames, tray, and drawers to insure proper alignment.
  13. Put glue on the back face of the middle/front molding ((K) and clamp into position with bar clamps. On the back side of the middle horizontal frame (E) drill three #10 x 1 1/4" countersink holes. The counter sinks should be 2" from each end and in the center of the middle horizontal frame (E). Use #10 x 1 1/4" flathead wood screws to secure the middle front molding.
  14. Attach the tray knob (C/C) and the drawer pulls (D/D).
  15. Slip the tray and the drawers into the cabinet to make sure everything fits and is aligned properly.
  16. Use 5/8" brads to secure the back (H) onto the cabinet.

F. Finish Procedures:

  1. Use plastic wood dough to fill all nail holes, cracks and imperfections.
  2. Use an orbital hand sander and 220 grit sandpaper to finish sand the entire project.
  3. Hand sand all edges with 220 grit sandpaper.
  4. If stain is desired, apply with a brush and allow to penetrate for 5-10 minutes, and then remove with a clean rag.
  5. Allow stain to dry 6 hours and then repeat with a second coat.
  6. Apply a clear finish coat such as Varathane, Polyurethane, lacquer, etc. using a pure-bristle brush. Allow to dry 12 hours.
  7. Lightly hand sand finish with 220 grit sandpaper.
  8. Apply second coat of clear finish.
  9. If additional finish coats are desired, repeat steps #6 & 7.
  10. Allow to dry 24 hours for the finish to dry.

  11. Notes: 1. Be sure to match the color of the wood dough to the stain color.
    2. Use a tack rag after each sanding procedure to remove the dust.

*Congratulations, your night stand is finished and ready to use!

Related Woodworking Plans:
Wooden Step Stool
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